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Does “plant-based collagen” really exist?

Doctorante en Pharmacie

In cosmetics and nutricosmetics, plant-based collagen is credited with health and beauty benefits for the skin. However, this term is misleading, as collagen is of animal origin. Let's decipher.

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collagene vegetal
✓ WHO ARE WE?
An editorial team specializing in nutrition. Authors of the book The Beneficial Foods (Mango Editions) and the podcast Food Revolutions.

Before being a molecule found in commerce, collagen is simply a protein present in you and me: it’s a component of our body

In the skin, joints, bones, muscles, or blood vessels, this macromolecule – so called because it’s a large protein – provides support and resistance to tissues. Collagen is part of the foundations of our internal home.

In creams, other facial treatments, and dietary supplements, collagen helps keep skin plump and radiant, smooths fine lines, and maintains joints in top condition. 

While it mainly comes from cattle and fish, you may have already encountered a so-called “plant-based collagen” on the market. What is it?

Read also | The 3 best marine collagens according to a pharmacist

The “plant-based collagen”: a marketing term

Plants do not produce collagen

The idea is enticing, but plant-based collagen doesn’t really exist. It’s a structural protein found exclusively in humans and the entire animal kingdom.

Unlike us, plants do not need collagen to support their different structures. It’s not necessary for plants to produce it.

When you read the label “plant-based collagen” on a beauty or nutricosmetic product, it’s either an amino acid complex trying to replicate the composition of animal collagen, or plants and nutrients that support the natural production of the protein

Plant-based collagen is there to meet the demand for vegan products or those with a smaller environmental impact. It’s primarily a marketing term, much like “vegan collagen.”

The composition of plant-based collagen in cosmetics

You might not have missed it, the term “plant-based collagen” is very widespread in the natural beauty sphere. Many brands market it as an active ingredient to enhance the appearance of the skin and hair

Upon closer inspection of the composition of these products, I found that brands mostly use yeasts, soy extracts, wheat, and other plants.

From these, glycoproteins similar to the composition of animal collagen are extracted, as I read in this study.

These collagen substitutes in cosmetics are used to soften the skin and smooth mature and wrinkled skin and to promote cell regeneration. 

soin collagene vegetal cheveux
Plants don’t need collagen, so they don’t produce it

4 plants to naturally boost collagen production

Just because plants cannot directly produce collagen doesn’t mean they can’t contribute to its synthesis within our body.

Some plants have molecules and nutrients that facilitate its production, an interesting alternative for people who do not wish to use animal-derived products.

1. Rosehip, rich in nutrients 

It’s the plant that provides the most renowned vegetable oil and essential oil for mature skin.

Rosehip contains vitamin C which boosts collagen synthesis, and has antioxidant properties that help combat its degradation. I recommend reading this study on the subject.

Additionally, it contains linoleic and linolenic acids, which help maintain the skin’s hydro-lipid film, making it too good to miss out on.

2. Ginseng

Studies have shown the effects of ginseng on the skin as an anti-aging agent, thanks to its main compound: ginsenoside. 

It could notably act by regulating the levels of matrix metalloproteinases in fibroblast type I human collagen to improve the elasticity and water content of the skin.

In short, it would help enhance the effectiveness of collagen

3. Centella Asiatica 

Also known as Gotu Kola, it’s less known than other cosmetic plants. However, it has very interesting properties according to my research. 

Studies have shown that this plant could promote the proliferation of fibroblasts – the cells that produce collagen – and thus synthesize more collagen. 

While further studies are needed, I find it to be a very promising plant in cosmetics.

4. Bamboo 

There are no specific scientific studies showing that the use of bamboo in cosmetics or supplements increases collagen production.

Nevertheless, this plant contains silica, a trace element involved in collagen synthesis

Additionally, it possesses antioxidant and soothing properties that could provide favorable conditions for maintaining and synthesizing the protein. 

collagene naturel
Some plants have molecules that facilitate collagen production